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      <image:caption>In the City of Big Shoulders – Carl Sandburg’s apt description of the Midwest’s burly and bustling metropolis – trailblazing innovation and strokes of genius are somewhat of a tradition. Here, history-making ideas from some of the twentieth century’s finest architects – Louis Sullivan, Frank Lloyd Wright, Henry Hobson, Dankmar Adler and Walter Burley Griffin, to name a modest few – shaped the city’s physical form not to mention its global identity, manifesting in design movements such as the Chicago and Prairie Schools. Present-day progressive minds ensure Chicago remains a hive of ingenuity; this century, however, it’s a pursuit of low-impact, greener living that commands praise (a course surely unimaginable to the cast of Saul Bellow’s ‘The Adventures of Augie March’, whose weathering of 1920s Chicago in all its feverish, wheezing industrial bustle provides consummate reading material for visitors to the Windy City). Welcome a new day with strong coffee in the Museum of Contemporary Art’s commendable café – on Tuesdays, wander the sun-drenched spaces free of charge. Digest the morning’s cultural nourishment at Oak Street Beach, a few blocks along North Michigan Avenue; here, locals unleash high spirits that are kept in check through famously unforgiving winters, resulting in an atmosphere of palpable, unreserved joy that ripples through the city. A few blocks south, on the ninety-sixth floor of Hancock Tower, a refreshing gin and tonic pairs well with the stunning spectacle of the Chicago’s skyline at sunset. Agent Gallery agentgallery.com Slightly unsettling curios nest among odd and eerily beautiful objects, serving as Agent Gallery’s principal draw. Wander in to marvel (or gawk) at the exhibited art or to purchase practical objects for the home: furniture, lighting, sea anemone specimens etc. The by-appointment only gallery’s macabre bent makes for a museum-like visiting experience; seek out an Art Deco desk lamp or Mao-era propaganda poster; or, should tastes tend to vintage orthodontic dental mannequins and prosthetic eye collections from the 1950s, then rejoice - options abound. B Boka Restaurant bokachicago.com Sample Michelin-starred fare in one of Chicago’s finest dining rooms, where a sleek and dark aesthetic is tempered cleverly with a mossy vertical garden adorned with portraits of snappily dressed cats and forest creatures sporting ruff collars. Here, chef Lee Wolen celebrates humble vegetables with vigor and sass, exemplified by the brilliant broccoli salad. Meat, however, can’t help but steal the spotlight and accordingly the short rib should not be missed. C Chicago Architecture Foundation architecture.org Honoring the city’s indelible imprint on twentieth-century architecture, Chicago Architecture Foundation (CAF) preserves, celebrates and nourishes its citizens’ ardent respect for design. To complement a rich annual programme of lectures, events and workshops that examine the everyday importance of intelligent architecture, the Foundation’s daily tours are renowned widely for their quality, scope and depth of detail. Selecting a tour can be challenging so it’s helpful to note that those who opt for Historic Skyscrapers or River Cruise are rarely left wanting. D Dorchester Projects Archive House rebuild-foundation.org/site/archive-house When the Prairie Avenue Bookstore closed its doors in 2009, local artist Theaster Gates offered its 14,000-volume collection (a vital and comprehensive catalogue of the birth and life of Chicago’s Prairie School) refuge in his purpose-built Dorchester Projects Archive House. The previously derelict building, tenderly restored using repurposed materials (part of the artist’s wider urban regeneration efforts), also houses 60,000 glass lantern slides salvaged in a similar fashion from the University of Chicago’s Art History Department. Next door, explore Listening House, home to scores of albums rescued when 21-year-old Dr. Wax Records closed its doors in 2009. E Exelon Pavilions, Millennium Park cityofchicago.org Absorb Anish Kapoor’s ‘Cloud Gate’ sculpture (known locally as ‘the bean’) and allocate ample time to admire Frank Gehry’s Jay Pritzker Pavilion before wandering on to Millennium Park’s south end where Renzo Piano’s Exelon Pavilions reside. Clad in solar panels that feed electricity - in impressive volumes - directly into the city’s grid, the Pavilions play a key part in Chicago’s ambition to earn North America’s title of ‘greenest city’. With thoughts resting on subjects of sustainability and environmentally conscious living, wander into Lurie Garden, a three-acre rooftop botanical paradise as exquisite in winter as it is in the throes of summer. F Florida Stone Crab Claws at Shaw’s Crab House shawscrabhouse.com An ode to the ocean, the menu of Shaw’s Crab House centres on oysters shucked fresh from Puget Sound and meaty crab claws sourced seasonally from waters of the North Atlantic to Alaska’s Kodiak Archipelago. Happy hour – 4pm to 6pm daily – sees hordes of visitors gleefully sucking down half-price oysters – a satisfying feast best enjoyed as an afternoon pit stop between exploring nearby Chicago Cultural Center and ambling through Millennium Park. G Graham Bookshop grahamfoundation.org In this beautiful, light-filled bookstore devoted to architecture- and design-focused titles, a large volume of tomes on display pertain in some way to a stimulating public programme of talks and exhibitions held by the Graham Foundation for Advanced Studies in the Fine Arts; the rest are publications produced by the Foundation’s grantees (around $1 million is granted annually to organisations and individuals working on in-depth design-, architecture- and urban planning-themed projects), noted design periodicals and hard-to-find or historically significant titles. H Harris Theater for Music and Dance harristheaterchicago.org At the rear of Jay Pritzker Pavilion on Millennium Park’s eastern edge, Harris Theatre is home to more than forty performing arts companies. With its full house of riotously creative ensembles, the theater’s output of public events is – perhaps unsurprisingly – renowned globally. Pore over the programme, which in the past has featured performances by the esteemed Paris Opéra Ballet and Israel’s Pinchas Zukerman, leaving ample time pre-show to wander and admire the cleverly landscaped plains of Millennium Park, its garden paths, public art and spectacular architecture. I Illinois Institute of Technology iit.edu Home to the world’s most concentrated assemblage of buildings by Mies van der Rohe (drawn from Germany’s Bauhaus to design the institution’s master plan), IIT is as much a gallery of modernist architecture as it is a place of academic instruction. Once all buildings have been ogled to a satisfying degree, continue the tour along the shore of Lake Michigan, dotted with some of the architect’s best-known triumphs including One IMB Plaza, the Esplanade Apartment Buildings and 860-880 Lake Shore Apartments. J Johnnie’s Beef +1 708 452 6000 As ‘Chicago’ as the Sears Tower (or as Chicagoans’ resistance to calling it by its current name, Willis Tower), Johnnie’s Beef represents the top of the mountain where the city’s beloved signature sandwich is concerned: the Italian beef. Sliced delicately thin, abundant tender beef folds into a fresh white roll, whose primary purpose is to soak up the warm juices of meat freshly dunked in Johnnie’s special jus. Specify ‘sweet’ to include green bell peppers, ‘hot’ to top your meal with the house’s fiery pickle mix, and be sure to add ‘juicy’ if seeking an especially memorable beef sandwich experience. K Khecari Contemporary Dance Company khecari.org Known best for performances that warp and tinker with the audience’s perceptions of space, Khecari takes contemporary dance and contorts its experimental bent a fraction further. Past sold-out seasons have seen the traditional stage abandoned in favor of Khecari’s purpose-built ‘micro-theater’, a five by eight-foot box recessed below an audience of twelve. Looking down on the intricately choreographed performance, the audience experiences an affecting, near visceral immersion in the unfolding story. L Longman &amp; Eagle longmanandeagle.com For those post-hefty meal moments when rolling from the table and into bed is the most appealing idea in the world: Longman and Eagle, where six sleek and cheerful rooms were recently added to the restaurant’s offering. Designed with contemporary taste and attention to detail, the rooms vary in size and aesthetic, while each awards its lodger tokens for complimentary whiskey (the establishment’s specialty). Bedside reading material usually includes Lucky Peach and Walt Whitman poetry, if not an old cassette player and mixtapes compiled by local artists. M Museum of Contemporary Photography mocp.org Across three floors of its compact space, Columbia College’s Museum of Contemporary Photography exhibits works of widely varied technologies, forms and techniques. Straddling analog and digital imagery produced a refreshing blend of established and emerging photographers, the museum’s catalogue is revealed through innovative programming that responds to global goings-on, historic anniversaries and the ever-changing tides of local sentiment. N ‘Native Son’, 1940 By Richard Wright While traveling, experience of a city can be enhanced immeasurably by delving into literature that explores the destination’s landscape, character and history. Published in 1940, Wright’s ‘Native Son’ was written to jar with a white readership in hopes of stoking greater awareness of the plight of African Americans suppressed under segregation, and to provoke political action. A powerful and provocative read, the book sold in record numbers at lightning speed. Pick up a copy at Logan Square’s Uncharted Books or Myopic Books in Wicker Park. O Oak Park cal.flwright.org/tours Like an open-air museum of architecture, Oak Park’s streets are often dotted with design aficionados on a specific sort of pilgrimage: this bosky residential nook of Chicago is home to twenty-five buildings designed or remodeled by Frank Lloyd Wright – a density unrivalled elsewhere in the world. While most are private residences, it’s possible to wander through Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio as part of a tour (consider ‘Wright Around Oak Park’, a three-hour guided walk) focused on Wright’s pioneering influence as part of Chicago’s Prairie School. P Poetry Foundation poetryfoundation.org Shared monthly, Poetry hasn’t slowed for a second of its 113-year life. Rather, when the magazine’s Foundation finally lay down permanent roots on West Superior Street in 2011 (in a refined and understated building by local practice John Ronan Architects), it opened itself to regular tours of its light-filled library (home to more than 30,000 volumes), a wider programme of events, and, loveliest of all, Wednesday Poemtime: weekly sessions devoted to cultivating poetry appreciation in two- to five-year-olds. Should you wish to secure a tour, phoning ahead is advisable. Q Quiche at Floriole floriole.com Made using organic flour and sugar sourced locally from sustainable farms, Floriole’s French-influenced offering is one of the city’s finest. Croissants, tarts and apple galettes are an obvious (and wildly rewarding) choice; however, when seeking savoury satisfaction, the bakery’s deep-dish quiche does not disappoint. A wide selection of fresh-baked loaves – house sourdough, challah, brioche and oat walnut bread – should also be sampled copiously. R Rebuild Foundation rebuild-foundation.org Uncovering underused or wholly neglected spaces, restoring them using repurposed, often local materials and filling them with art, literature, film and theatre has proved for Rebuild Foundation a supremely successful urban regeneration strategy. Founder Theaster Gates, a Chicago native artist and urban planner known widely for highly effective and left-of-centre ideas regarding how to save community treasures from loss or destruction, envisions Chicago’s embattled fringes restored through a ‘culture based, artist led, and neighborhood driven’ approach.’ Enquire about tours of the Foundation’s spaces through its website. S Sandmeyer’s Bookstore sandmeyersbookstore.com Slip away from the bustle of the Loop and into the quiet, creaky-floored aisles of this husband-and-wife owned independent bookstore. Bibliophiles will recognise and appreciate the warm, enveloping aroma of paper pages teeming with stories – the unmistakable musk of all good bookstores cultivated over several decades. The store’s solid travel section is well worth exploring – linger and absorb its extraordinary ability to inject travel plans with romance unrivalled by electronic resources. T Trenchermen trenchermen.com Once a Turkish bathhouse, Trencherman’s striking interior delights almost as much as its food menu and highly commended cocktail list. And while the evening offering is well worth sampling, brunch should not be overlooked. Opt for pastries to complement locally roasted coffee (rotated monthly) as a prelude to dishes such as eggs florentine with buttermilk biscuits, kale and hot sauce hollandaise. If feeling a little dusty from night-before revelries, the list of brunch-appropriate alcoholic drinks serves as a standalone reason to stop by. U Underground Film Festival (CUFF) Logan Theater cuff.org The Festival’s programme was perhaps best described by late American film critic Roger Ebert, as he articulated what set underground films apart from independents: ‘They exist on another plane – grottier, more anarchic, less eager to please, more willing to outrage.’ Visit in May for a three-day binge on unabashedly gritty, raw and curious cinema screened in the Chicago’s century-old Logan Theater (a stunning destination deserving of a visit regardless). V Volume Gallery wvvolumes.com Celebrating pieces that dance the line between functional object and conceptual art, Volume Gallery distinguishes itself with decidedly design-focused exhibitions. Fostering connections between makers and collectors, the event-oriented gallery’s collaborations and exhibitions pry open the scope of exposure for emerging designers. Should the idea of fitting your home with gallery-worthy furniture, many pieces straddling useful and ornamental are available for purchase. W Wrigley Field chicago.cubs.mlb.com Temple of Chicago’s fiery love of sports, Wrigley Field should be experienced by all visitors to the city – and in full flight where possible with beer and pretzels flowing abundantly. Home of the Cubs, the ballpark’s ivy-shrouded interior perimeter is what many call to mind at the mention of American baseball. And although it’s been more than a century since the beloved Cubs’ last World Series win, it’d be hard to guess from the electric atmosphere and the crowd’s fierce, unabating enthusiasm. Whipped up in the frenzy, wander and absorb the delights of surrounding Wrigleyville. X Xoco rickbayless.com/restaurants/xoco A swift and wallet-friendly feed packing heat, zest and simple fresh flavours. The eatery’s take on Mexican street food, namely its tortas (a classic Mexican sandwich served in supremely crunchy bread) sees tables full from early open to late close. Should eating on the go appeal, order the torta ahogada (juicy slow-roasted pork roaring with garlic, chilli salsa and marinated onion) head south on North Clark Street and wander along Chicago River. Z Zolla/Lieberman Gallery zollaliebermangallery.com Celebrating its fortieth year in 2016, Zolla/Lieberman has played a pivotal part in defining and advancing Chicago’s contemporary art scene. The River North space is even credited with founding the bones of the surrounding gallery district. Across mixed media, painting, sculpture, metalwork and elaborate installations, the gallery’s programme, refreshed regularly, exhibits widely varied works by established and emerging artists.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Eighty per cent of the adult population carries wallet-sized emblems of Seattle’s unabashedly book-nerdish lean – library cards; it’s little wonder the city is the second-most literate in the US (and coming for you, Minneapolis). Over the past century, successive governments’ literacy-focused initiatives and their predilection for building, razing and rebuilding the Central Library have encouraged and nourished this bent. Further, an unbridled creative spirit and wilderness-wrapped surrounds – mountains, lakes and islands – have instigated countless poems, novels and love songs, teased from the minds of the Beats and subsequent generations of writers. A fitting start to any Seattle stay is a weekend breakfast at Ballard Farmer’s Market before refuelling mid-morning at Herkimer Coffee. If the day calls for bathing suits over umbrellas, head to Golden Gardens for an afternoon on the beach, with reading material collected en route from Open Books, the city’s sole poetry-only bookstore; or, if activity slightly more arduous appeals, enquire at Seattle Architecture Tours. Finish with dinner at unfussy and classically French Le Pichet, followed by whiskey at Blue Moon Tavern, a decades-old watering hole rickety with the history of Seattle’s counterculture, and once-favoured drinking spot of Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg and Carolyn Kizer. A Art Walk First Thursdays pioneersquare.org/first-Thursday-art-walk Scores of live music venues, theatres and a particularly dense assemblage of galleries in Pioneer Square sustain Seattle’s strong creative pulse. Complimentary art walks through the neighbourhood are held on the first Thursday of each month – a community gesture of several decades’ duration – with most venues using the occasion to unveil new exhibits. When weary, head to Good Bar for wine and charcuterie in a stunning Gold Rush-era setting (minus the bar fights and spitting). B Bloedel Reserve bloedelreserve.org Nature seeps into the Emerald City from all angles. However, full immersion in the wilderness requires an out-of-town venture; thankfully, a mere half-hour ferry ride separates Seattle from Bainbridge Island. In addition to 24,000 residents, the island is home to Bloedel Reserve – 150 acres of forest and immaculately landscaped gardens established ‘to provide refreshment and tranquillity in the presence of natural beauty.’ Explore and absorb at leisurely pace; return calmed and renewed. C Central Library spl.org In 1998, a ‘Libraries for All’ initiative saw $196.4 million funnelled into the renovation and extension of Seattle’s neighbourhood libraries. Central Library – a 1960 International style building complete with drive-in book collection – was razed and resurrected in Rem Koolhaas’s bold crystalline structure of steel and glass. Although divisive when first opened, the building’s architectural clout can’t be denied; in Koolhaas’ words, its innovative ‘Book Spiral’ spine aims to undo ‘some of the sadness of the typical library.’ D Degenerate Art Ensemble (DAE) http://degenerateartensemble.com/ The work of Seattle’s much-lauded avant-garde performance troupe is best summarised as otherworldly, yet intensely visceral. Here, Butoh meets punk meets nightmare meets sacrificial rite meets fairytale, to transporting, transformative effect. Which is just as founders Haruko Nishimura and Joshua Kohl intended, seeking to deliver ‘immersive meditations that use light, sound, music, movement and space as tools to strip away the waking world’. If not in Seattle, you may catch DAE on tour; browse the online calendar for a current programme. E Elliott Bay Book Co. elliottbaybook.com Despair was widespread when this stalwart book merchant vacated its Pioneer Square home of 36 years; but short-lived as its new neighbourhood, Capitol Hill, threw a ‘welcome to the block’ party. Host to regular talks that see the likes of Annie Leibovitz and Dave Eggers through the doors, Elliott Bay Book Company plays a critical role in Seattle’s love affair with literature. Adored for its creaky floorboards, breezy pace and extensive collection, the bookshop also houses Little Oddfellows, serving decent coffee, scones and sandwiches to peckish bookworms. F Frank Gehry’s EMP empmuseum.com Aside from the world-famous Space Needle, eccentric talking-point architecture wasn’t overly common in Seattle before the clamorous arrival of the Frank Gehry-designed Experience Music Project Museum (EMP). The years since its 2000 opening haven’t entirely quelled the debate about its place in Seattle’s design lexicon; however, love or loathe its bright and bulbous form, a visit is wholly worthwhile: the interior is as electric and engaging as its never-ending Jimi Hendrix exhibits. G Grand Illusion Cinema grandillusioncinema.org Since 1968, this tiny nook of the University District has screened independent, arthouse and foreign films as the city’s only not-for-profit volunteer-run cinema. With a seventy-seat capacity, the sumptuous red-drenched Jewel Box cinema offers warmth and intimacy as well as occasional triple-feature pizza parties celebrating mutant and horror films. Fiercely independent, the cinema clings doggedly to 16mm and 35mm reels, preserving the romance of analogue while major studios, sadly, move to abandon it entirely. H Hoh Rain Forest nps.gov/olym For an immensely pleasurable day trip, hop the ferry from Colman Dock and embrace the two-hour drive to Hoh Rain Forest, which, nourished by up to fourteen feet of rain annually, glows with technicolour hues nothing short of mesmerising. Find a plot on the banks of Hoh River, milky-blue by means of glacial sediment, and ponder Robin Wall Kimmerer’s fascinating reflections on what moss can teach us, in Gathering Moss: A Natural and Cultural History of Mosses. I Il Corvo ilcorvopasta.com Tucked away inside Procopio Gelateria, twenty-seater Il Corvo serves exceptional pasta handmade on site. Inspired by the pared-back Tuscan restaurants where chef and owner Mike Easton cut his pasta-making teeth, the eatery runs on principles of fresh, honest and simple, reflected not only in its dishes’ flavours but also their modest price tags. A blackboard declares the day’s menu, informed by Easton’s whims and what’s available locally from local growers and markets. J Joule joulerestaurant.com Brunch of eggs and bacon sounds painfully humdrum when compared with Joule’s weekend fare, which strays from a customary Korean fusion focus in favour of a buffet feast with a monthly theme. Past months have showcased boundary-pushing takes on Persian, Taiwanese and Moroccan, each dish demonstrating impressive creativity and left-of-centre flavour combinations. A $19 cover also includes a dish from the staple brunch menu (the adventurous rarely pass up French toast with green curry chimichurri and apple compote). K Knee High Stocking Co. kneehighstocking.com In curious juxtaposition to its 1920s speakeasy theme, texting ahead is the only way to secure a booking at Knee High Stocking Co. While not essential, reservations are recommended as the tiny space fills quickly, even on weeknights. Creative cocktails mixed with a chemist’s precision are what draw most to the dimly lit Capitol Hill nook: pair the Kentucky Bite – Knob Creek Bourbon, Luxardo, lemon juice, Benedictine, cardamom bitters – with a few morsels from the crowd-pleasing bar menu. L Ludlow Co. ludlowhome.com Described by owner James as ‘a scratchy record whose crackles and pops and imperfections you've learned to love’, Ludlow Co. preserves the past with unabashed nostalgia. Its sprawling and elegantly assembled collection comprises odds and ends, rugs, tables and lampshades as well as plants and handmade pieces by local craftspeople. A matchmaker of sorts, James seeks to spark connections between visitors and his pieces – a pleasure sometimes lost in a climate of digital purchasing. M Molly Moon’s Ice Cream Parlor mollymoon.com In its mission ‘to make the world better one scoop at a time,’ Molly Moon is making excellent ground. Across five locations, devotion to churning the city’s best ice cream is equalled only by a commitment to sustainability, employee wellbeing, and philanthropic engagement with the community. Flavours, cones and toppings are made on-site using ingredients sourced locally from farmers, beekeepers et al… and Scouts; 180,000 Girl Scout Thin Mint cookies purchased annually result in ever-popular scoops of ‘Scout Mint’. N NUBE nubegreen.com Sustainability and support of local artisans and American manufacturing drive NuBe’s philosophy and its range of clothing, homewares, jewelry and accessories. Not only goods for sale but also shop fittings are crafted entirely from repurposed, sustainable and organic materials made locally, in an encouragingly successful effort to steer away from cheaply made landfill-destined items. An immediate favourite: the Parva Rucksack made from New Jersey-sourced canvas and leather bridle straps from Pennsylvania. O Olympic Sculpture Park seattleartmuseum.org/visit/olympic-sculpture-park Once an oil transfer facility traversing complicated, contaminated terrain, Olympic Sculpture Park represents a feat of design ingenuity - beginning with transplanting clean fill collected from the excavation involved in Seattle Art Museum’s expansion to replace the site’s original sullied earth. Its culptures and sweeping views of Seattle’s skyline, Elliott Bay and the Olympic Mountains are best enjoyed with snacks – swing by Pike Place Market en route for a housemade meatball sandwich from LoPriore Bros. P Paper Hammer paper-hammer.com Paper Hammer sells objects and handbound books that celebrate design technologies and techniques of the past two centuries. All are made by artisans in Tieton – a town two-and-a-half hours’ drive southeast of Seattle, severely affected by a decline in small farming. In tandem with other like operations (including a kite production facility and goat cheese creamery), Paper Hammer’s initiatives are helping to revitalise a struggling economy, touting the Mighty Tieton motto: ‘an incubator for artisan businesses.’ Q Quality Athletics qualityathletics.com A punt’s distance from CenturyLink Field, home of the Seattle Seahawks and Sounders FC, Quality Athletics is a contemporary take on the classic sports bar, with the perfect degree of polish. Drink in the city’s frenzied enthusiasm for sports (the Seahawks crowd is widely recognised as the NFL’s loudest, and for a time even held the Guinness World Record for the volume of its bone-rattling roar) while enjoying a menu that eschews the predictable with items such as pork broth ramen and smoked pig’s tail. R The Royal Room theroyalroomseattle.com Birthplace of Jimi Hendrix, homeground of grunge (and its poster boys, Nirvana), and mother of Pearl Jam, Seattle has long been an incubator for musicians possessed of a knack for generating unique sound. Accordingly, live music venues are strewn across the city and patronised with vigour; The Royal Room is one of the finest. Enjoy jazz and blues in a space designed for musicians (the giant stage boasts a full set of instruments known as ‘a permanent backline’), complemented by a solid food menu and happy hour specials. S Seattle Arts and Lectures lectures.org Seattle is passionately literary, and a lively campaign for recognition of this by UNESCO with a Creative Cities ‘City of Literature’ title is ongoing. Epitomising the people’s bookish lean is a web of organisations devoted in varying ways to the craft of storytelling through writers’ workshops, talks, classes, readings and student literacy initiatives. Imbibe the city’s love of the written word at regular events hosted by Seattle Arts and Letters as part of its stimulating annual programme. T Ten22Home Those with a yen for mid-twentieth century chairs should bee-line to Fremont Avenue North. On a regular day, Ten22Home counts pieces such as a Herman Miller Eames Shell Chair or Frank Gehry’s Knoll Hat Trick side chair in its extensive collection. Seating aside, artefacts of classic Danish design restored to perfection consume a healthy swathe of floorspace; the fortunate might find a trio of Ludvig Pontoppidan nesting teak tables buried behind Brutalist metal wall art or an Alvar Aalto writing desk. U Uwajimaya uwajimaya.com Jump the light rail to the bustling International District and write off a few hours to wander the seemingly endless aisles of 86-year-old Uwajimaya. The mega-market of Asian food and kitchenwares, with a pointedly Japanese lean, teems with electronics and kitchen gadgets most never knew they needed but fast deem essential. Shopping-induced hunger is best conquered in Uwajimaya’s fabulous food court, and for lovers of manga and anime, Kinokuniya book store beckons. V Victrola Coffee Roasters victrolacoffee.com Hopped up on coffee more than any other American city, Seattle caters to residents’ habits with cafes on almost every corner and roasteries on every second. Standards are high across the board, resulting in city-dwellers fluent in sophisticated coffee-speak; they favour places such as Victrola Roastery and Cafe, renowned for a farm-to-cup focus, high-quality roast and weekly complimentary cupping sessions (held Wednesdays at 11am). Follow locals’ lead and linger with a book in the warmly furnished Art Deco space. W Wall of Sound wosound.com While digital music spelled doom for scores of record stores globally, many persevered, buoyed by the passion of their owners and the custom of a fiercely loyal music-mad community. For twenty-five years, Wall of Sound has serviced (and cultivated) fans of niche genres, building impressively thorough sections around things such as ‘Japanese Noise’ and ‘Industrial Indie’. Visit to flip through an unrivalled collection of vinyl, and an expertly curated jazz catalogue. X EXcinema http://excinemaseattle.blogspot.com.au/ This filmmakers’ group welcomes innovators who work beyond conventions of genre and form - embracing everything from direct animation on film to experimental digital media projects. It holds monthly screenings complemented by discussions and filmmaker talks, mostly at Grand Illusion Cinema. It also commissions works from around the globe, and partners with like organisations at home and abroad. Check online for forthcoming EXcinema events, and expect reliably intelligent, unorthodox viewing. Y Ye Olde Curiosity Shop yeoldecuriosityshop.com In ‘Afternoon Seattle’, a scuttling account of his passage through a then-rundown and gritty city, Allen Ginsberg writes of a ‘Sailor's curio shop hung with shells and skulls a whalebone mask, Indian seas.’ It would seem he stumbled into the trove of peculiar treasures that is Ye Olde Curiosity Shop, now in extreme old age. Here, you’ll find not only the shells and skulls of ‘Afternoon Seattle’ but also bat skeleton paperweights and two-headed taxidermy rabbits in glass dome cloches - and much else to amaze. Zinfadel at Vif Wine and Coffee vifseattle.com When it comes to food and wine, it’s always best to follow the lead of the French. Caves à manger – wine shops serving small plates – have spilled across Paris at a steady pace, and recently into Seattle as Vif Wine and Coffee. Ethically sourced coffee complements an appetising breakfast menu – try smoked sprats on seawolf rye with labneh. In the evening, attention turns to natural wines – enjoy a bottle on the spot with a selection of bar-friendly dishes that celebrate locally sourced ingredients and growers.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>A rambling landscape of ravines carves Toronto into neighbourhood pockets, each boasting distinct and historically rich identities. Sample Little Italy, Portugal and Tibet before even setting foot in the city’s East side, where boroughs bear names such as Cabbagetown and aptly brim with lashings of character. In the Distillery District – home to North America’s best-preserved examples Victorian Industrial architecture – brick-paved streets lined with galleries and artists’ studios feed an afternoon itinerary of cultural bingeing. Reserve time for Case Goods Warehouse, home to more than fifty artists, craftspeople and stores retailing the tenants’ varied creations, from handmade furniture to custom jewellery and metalworks. A head-clearing walk through High Park is best enjoyed in the morning. Collect coffee at Ella’s Uncle en route to Robarts Library, an imposing concrete monument to Brutalism and preferred study spot for 18,000 students daily. If cloud-free skies reign, climb the CN Tower for jaw-dropping views – Niagara Falls can be spotted from the summit. Down the road, the Fairmont Royal York’s Library Bar serves a mean martini to preface after-hours activities. A ARTiculations articulations.ca In a city dense with artists and creatives, a well-stocked art supplier is as essential as a grocery store. Visit here for exceptional quality ballpoint pens, paints, pigments, sketchbooks, custom panels and printmaking materials or to explore the adjoining gallery’s current exhibition. Complementing a programme of framing, sketching and watercolour workshops and wide-ranging art classes for children and adults, the store hosts regular ‘Wes Anderson Painting Parties’ well worth experiencing. B Boralia boraliato.com Presented with pigeon pie, the wise will tuck in, to be rewarded with rich and tender chunks of flavourful squab encased in buttery, perfectly flaky pastry. The 400-year-old dish (Head Chef Wayne Morris deduced its age via extensive research of Canada’s culinary records, intending a menu inspired by the nation’s first people) is Boralia’s star item on a list of close seconds, such as pan-roasted elk and onions stuffed with melt-in-the-mouth creamed carrots and spices. C Cheese Cave TOCA tocarestaurant.com Complementing a menu of sustainably sourced Canadian fare, TOCA’s cheese cave houses 200-odd cheeses, of which around half are sourced locally. For flavours personifying the country, sample the five-year aged cheddar infused with maple syrup and whisky. Tasting sessions led by TOCA’s Head Cheesemonger are held regularly; simply phone to enquire, or wander in while exploring the surrounding theatre district. D The Drake Hotel thedrakehotel.ca When booking at the Drake, opt for the cosy ‘Nook’ or compact yet comfortable ‘Crash Pad’; or if sprawling is your style, take the XL Suite. Colourful complementary offerings (available for non-guests’ enjoyment, too) include Sky Yard rooftop, Corner Cafe, Underground live music space and occasional nightclub, and Drake General Store, which sells everything from fresh coffee to clothing. The hotel’s event calendar typifies its quirks and philosophies: there’s every chance you’ll encounter a good old-fashioned (and well attended) neighbourhood clean-up scheduled for your stay. E Elgin and Winter Garden Theatre heritagetrust.on.ca Should travels feel deficient in drama, Elgin and Winter Garden Theatre can compensate ably, with a dose of architectural appreciation on the side: the 102-year-old venue was painstakingly restored in the 1980s following fifty years’ neglect (and in the Winter Garden’s case, total disuse in the wake of vaudeville’s demise), and its extensive facelift alone is worth the visit. The process involved delicate washing of walls using raw bread dough, extensive regilding, and exacting restoration of opera boxes, plaster detailing and the grand marble staircase. Tours are held daily Tuesday to Friday for a cheerful $5. F First Thursdays at AGO ago.net/firstthursdays Renowned for their adventurous spirit, Art Gallery of Ontario’s First Thursdays vary in focus, content and form from one month to the next: Grandmaster Flash paired with the works of Jean-Michael Basquiat might be followed by a video-link exchange between AGO’s Director and artist Ai Weiwei, or the transformation of the Gallery’s Walker Court into a Marrakech-style bazaar complete with its own currency for purchasing exhibited art. Whether or not First Thursdays sync with your calendar, a visit to Torontonian Frank Gehry’s fabulous structure is surely essential. G Good Egg goodegg.ca Notebooks, crockery, cutlery and books with a food-loving lean form the organised clutter of Good Egg, curated by owner Mika Bareket. In addition to its trove of wooden spoons, Finnish textiles and children’s story books, the store hosts cooking classes, and wine appreciation and knife skills courses led by local experts. H Humber Arboretum humberarboretum.on.ca Just outside the city centre, this 250-acre space hosts Canada’s most diverse ecosystem, tended with the utmost care by horticulture students of Humber College. A day-long visit is best, with a packed lunch on board; for picnicking, consider Tranquility Garden or the Urban Wildlife Garden dense with butterfly-magnet wildflowers, or opt for a plot by the ponds with turtles and frogs, or perhaps in the woods where deer are known to wander and owl sightings (perhaps Great Horned or the tiny Northern saw-whet) are not uncommon. I Ismaili Centre theismaili.org/ismailicentres/toronto Adjacent to Fumihiko Maki’s gleaming granite Aga Khan Museum, the Ismaili Centre Toronto invites all for quiet contemplation. Designed by Charles Correa, it blends traditional Islamic features with contemporary forms and materials, and is distinguished by a crystalline faceted dome set amid a seven-hectare park by Lebanese landscape architect Vladimir Djurovic. This is one of six such institutions across the globe, all established to symbolise Islamic culture, advance appreciation of its values and teachings, and extol the importance of pluralism. J Jazz at Poetry poetryjazzcafe.com A beacon for the faithful, Miles Davis’s face looms large on Poetry’s facade, beckoning mischievously in the bustle of Kensington Market. Leave your run here until around 10:30pm, when the resident trio takes the stage. Find a good vantage point, order a Bitches Brew (a signature spice-laden drink named for Davis’s seminal 1970 album), and then take in the music, which is steered regularly by emerging artists in line with the owner’s ambition to nurture a love of jazz in younger generations. K Kitka by Mjölk kitka.ca A blog by owners of Mjölk, a Junction design store and gallery specialising in Japanese and Scandinavian pieces. It catalogues a selection of items and objects, offering detailed commentary on the source, function, and maker of each, and why it was chosen to sit among Mjölk’s ‘everyday ritual’ wares. Through Kitka, discover the impeccable craftsmanship of Studioilse’s ‘Companions Bed’ for De La Espada; for items more readily transportable – such as a handmade hinoki cedar bath bowl with copper detailing – visit the store. L L’Ouvrier louvrier.ca Although L’Ouvrier is noted for evening fare, with an emphasis on contemporary Canadian dishes, the daytime menu holds similarly strong appeal; when paired with a pot of freshly brewed French press coffee, brunch provides the perfect preamble to a day of urban exploration. Friendly and sharp-eyed waitstaff ferry an eclectic array of dishes from the kitchen to the peckish: French toast might follow tuna tartare, and oat-nut crumble with yogurt and honey can be sent hot on the heels of a half-dozen oysters. M Mercer Union mercerunion.org Over 36 years, this artist-run gallery’s focus on site-specific work has bred outside-the-box exhibits by established and emerging artists across all forms of media. Steadfast in its mission to advance contemporary art both locally and internationally, and to challenge local audiences, Mercer Union hasn’t missed a beat in its long life, delivering diverse programmes and events – lectures, film screenings and performances – year after year. N Neubacher Shor Contemporary neubachershor.com In addition to excellent exhibitions, this cavernous back-alley gallery offers art styling services to aid collectors and new buyers in selecting pieces that best complement personal style. Once aesthetically sated, explore adjacent Little Tibet (Parkdale is home to North America’s largest Tibetan Canadian community) and refuel on plump meat or vegetable momos and butter tea at Loga’s Corner or Lhasa Kitchen. O Ontario College of Art and Design ocadu.ca/about/sharp-centre-for-design Architect Will Alsop’s Sharp Centre for the Ontario College of Art and Design hovers eight storeys above street level, a striking rival to Frank Gehry’s neighbouring Art Gallery of Toronto. It hosts two levels of teaching, studio and gallery space 26 metres above ground, and stands sentinel over a public outdoor area for students and local residents, on brightly hued stilts. In mid-2015, local design practice Bortolotto unveiled its design for the College’s new Rosalie Sharp Pavilion, set to feature an interactive facade animated through use of an app created by the College’s Digital Media Research Lab. P Post and Beam Reclamation pandb.ca Pre-loved pieces are added daily to Post and Beam’s collection, resulting in an unrivalled assemblage of architectural odds and ends. Offering everything from small decorative finds – such as a weathered window shutter, a pair of Art Deco wall sconces – to larger gems – a heavy decorative-panelled Oak door or Grecian-like support columns, this trove of fixer-upper treasures is one of several stores laying the foundation for Junction’s reputation as a destination for covetable furniture. Q Queens West Antique Centre qwac.ca Pre-loved furniture retailers abound in Toronto and every enthusiast has a favourite; for Modernist pieces rubbing teak elbows with Victorian antiques, and similar juxtapositions, venture to Queens West Antique Centre. The store’s blog catalogues its items for those wishing to browse ahead; however, an extensive wander through the enormous space is recommended to encounter the precious, weird and rare face-to-face. R Regent Park Aquatic Centre architizer.com/projects/regent-park-aquatic-centre Poor planning symptomatic of many post-war social housing efforts stymied Regent Park’s chances of becoming anything other than socially and economically marginalised. However, in 2005, a twelve-year revitalisation of Canada’s largest and oldest housing project began, with Regent Park Aquatic Centre the most noteworthy of its myriad success stories. Designed by MacLennan Jaunkalns Miller Architects, the Centre bucks stale tradition in favour of innovation and inclusivity, typified by designated pools for private swimming and non-gender specific change rooms. S Scarborough Bluffs Trail ontariotrails.on.ca/trails/view/scarborough-bluffs-trail Stretching fourteen kilometres and climbing to heights of 65 metres, the cliff’s edge along this popular trail offers spectacular views of Lake Ontario and its beaches. Pick up a feast of fish and chips from Duckworth’s on nearby Kingston Road, select a spot and absorb the surrounds. In addition to water, snacks and comfortable walking shoes, a keen sense of caution is advised when venturing anywhere near the precipice. T TIFF Bell Lightbox tiff.net Cutting a striking figure on Toronto’s skyline, the Bell Lightbox and 42-storey Festival Tower house the world’s largest film festival, and its everyday screen culture affairs. More than one million visitors file through the doors annually – many for the September festival, the rest to enjoy its year-round programme of classic, old and new screenings, workshops, exhibitions, lectures, or to explore the Canadian-focused catalogue of the Film Reference Library and sample the edible offerings of Canteen and Luma. U Umbra umbra.com Umbra is the company behind the world’s most widely admired rubbish receptacle, the Garbino Trash Can by Karim Rashid - a perfect example of its no-nonsense design. The Toronto-based brand’s unmissable flagship on Queens Street West teems with everyday objects simplified, often conceived and crafted in partnership with local designers and students of Humber College and the Ontario College of Art and Design. Sharing the space with these internationally recognisable products is a team of in-house designers, with whom visitors are encouraged to engage. V Vinny’s Panini vinnyspanini.foodpages.ca Believing his mother to be the world panini master, owner Vinny sought to share her star sandwich with hungry Torontonians; they have demonstrated gratitude daily by queueing patiently for his no-frills yet immeasurably satisfying sandwiches. Opt for the tender veal panini, a deliciously messy and saucy affair, and a hands-down crowd favourite. Do note that with meats cooked to order, waits are common; however, they are also well worthwhile. W Ward’s Island http://torontoisland.com/wards.php Removed from the flurry of the city and the hubbub of Centre Island, this is where locals come to laze. Hop off the ferry at Ward’s Island Dock and wander through the car-free, cottage-lined streets towards the beach. Seek a cooling beer and meal at The Island Cafe before exploring walking trails wrapped with lush, unruly greenery, native plants and wildflowers. A fifteen-minute amble east, Algonquin Island offers the ideal note on which to end the day: take in the panorama of Toronto’s skyline, which flickers to life as the sun goes down. X Xpace Cultural Centre xpace.info Youth in all its freshness, vigour and vibrancy is the life-force behind artist-run Xpace Cultural Centre. Students and emerging artists and designers dictate exhibits and events across the Centre’s four spaces, resulting in a programme that prizes imagination and sass in spades. We suggest an hour or two of cassette and Walkman appreciation in Boogie Woogie Mix-Tape Library. Y Yam Chops yamchops.com Beet burgers, tofu topped with mango salsa and quinoa for days – Yam Chops services the city’s hungry herbivores as its sole vegetarian ‘butcher’. Steered by principles of clean eating and a contemporary take on nutrition, the menu teems with vegan and gluten-free options for meat-averse eaters and those with food sensitivities and allergies. (An aside to vegetarians’ travel companions not quite comfortable with ‘coconut bacon’: consider Hey Meatball next door.) Z Zig Zag Mid-Century zigzagmidcentury.blogspot.ca A design aficionado’s dream, Zig Zag Mid-Century sells Louis Poulsen pendants, Arne Jacobsen stools, innumerable Scandinavian sideboards, Modernist tables, and mirrors among its artefacts from the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s. 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      <image:caption>When other children were building pillow forts, Nicholas Fuller was more likely to be found hanging arounds lathes and milling machines in his father’s fitting workshop. The son – and grandson – of a machinist, the Adelaide-based designer grew up immersed in the art of ‘handmade’, surrounded by raw materials and daily witness to skills that saw these materials transformed with utmost care from one thing, into something else entirely. Working with and honouring the imperfections and stubborn quirks of wood is a Fuller family gene, as is impeccable craftsmanship and an eye for good design. Today, a qualified fine furniture maker and wood machinist by trade, Nicholas is one of Australia’s most exciting emerging designers. His Cantilever side table impressed widely at DENFAIR 2017 and saw Nicholas presented with the Front / Centre Award. Originally a 2016 commission for a local Adelaide couple – an elegant response to a straight-up simple brief for private residence’s side tables – the Cantilever’s sophistication and appeal demanded a wider audience. The side table has since enjoyed small, limited-edition runs in Macassar Ebony and pink-washed American White Oak and is still available through Nicholas’s studio. When he’s not labouring away in that studio, you’ll find him in another: Nicholas is Production Manager of the Furniture Studio at Adelaide’s JamFactory. The globally renowned not-for-profit organisation is best described as a bubbling creative wellspring – a watering hole from which glassblowers, metal workers, ceramists and fine furniture makers draw inspiration and creative sustenance. It’s an elemental part of Nicholas’s creative process – usually around the model-making stage of a new design – to invite open discussions with his JamFactory peers such as mentor Jon Goulder, or members of local artisan and designer collective George Street Studios. “With design work, it’s easy to get sort up caught up in your own direction or mindset so open conversations with other designers can help lead you on a different path or trajectory and help you think in a different way. A lot of designers tend to bounce ideas off one another or other people; it’s a highly valuable part of the process.” This fluid exchange of ideas and advice, and an ever-niggling curiosity about other crafts has cracked open new possibilities and collaborative opportunities for the young designer, and is undoubtedly responsible for the originality and appeal of his work. In 2017, in addition to DENFAIR’s Front / Centre Award, Nicholas received the Clarence Prize’s Emerging Designer Award for his Voyage screens – as much a piece of art as a piece of furniture – and the Gold Award in Furniture and Lighting category at the DIA Awards. Beyond JamFactory, Nicholas taps the expertise of stonemasons, industrial designers and metal workers. Absorbing what he can of their knowledge and skills – and applying it to new bodies of work and experimentation with sintered bronze, acetal, granite and stainless steel – Nicholas laces threads of these disparate disciplines through his own. “I am very opened minded when it comes to process or materials. I don’t limit myself to fine furniture and wood. I always want to further my knowledge and understanding of process and materials.” With luck, visitors to DENFAIR in June will preview these fresh and adventurous works at Nicholas’s exhibit. Then it’s off to Milan with a talented rabble of other young designers, and followed, Nicholas hopes, by a stint in a European studio – it’s with confidence we can say they’d be lucky to have him. View on denfair.com.au</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>For this epic project—which aimed from the outset to redefine the luxury residential market—Cornwell worked closely with the client to build a unique brand story. Named for ice rink built in 1939, which occupied the present-day site until -centry’ the way in which Saint Moritz came to life and was presented to the world was as unq</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Work - Wander Back To 13th Century Italy – A Contemporary Approach By Smeg</image:title>
      <image:caption>Inspiration is a mysterious beast. For some, it comes effortlessly and often. For others, it hides timid and reticent, demanding gentle coaxing before it will consider informing a work of art, a song, a poem, a design. To inspire its most advanced built-in collection to date, Smeg wandered all the way back to 13th century Italy to revel in a literary revolution. With the Italians’ signature affinity for romance, Smeg drew inspiration from the historically pivotal dolce stil novo literary movement. Steered by a new school of poets, the ‘sweet new style’ of lyric love poetry was characterised by its sincere, rapturous expressions of love, its view of womanhood, nature and the divine, and its beatific, musical tenor. Like the poems of the movement’s proponents – specifically Guido Guinizzelli’s Al cor gentil rempaira sempre amore (In the gentle heart abideth love) – Smeg’s Dolce Stil Novo range dances with new frontiers, illuminating boundless possibilities for appliance design. Materials of the highest quality and painstakingly perfected details find complement in strong, modern lines, and trim accents of copper and stainless steel. Black glass by award-winning architect Guido Canali underscores Dolce Stil Novo’s uncompromising elegance. Dose Café by Smeg, which fuelled the energies of DENFAIR 2017’s attendees, offered not only an opportunity to showcase the brand’s Dolce Stil Novo range – comprising immaculately designed ovens, a blast chiller, multi-functional drawers, gas, induction and mixed hobs, hoods, wine cellars and coffee machines – but also the opportunity to immerse individuals in its richly romantic inspirations. Injecting nature into the space – a theme woven through ‘sweet new style’ works – the balustrades demarcating Dose Café featured laser-cut birds in a gentle nod to Guinizzelli’s intoxicating prose. Within the gentle heart abideth Love, As doth a bird within green forest glade, Neither before the gentle heart was Love, Nor Love ere gentle heart by Nature made. Considered bursts of greenery by Glasshaus lent lightness and energy to the space while tempering the range’s dark, sophisticated palette. In addition to porcelain sheet benchtops by Artedomus, clean-lined Nolita chairs and Ikon tables by James Richardson invited guests to gather, eat, drink, linger, and absorb the poetry of Dolce Stil Novo’s designs through all five senses.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>About - Writer + Editor + Creative Director</image:title>
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